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TrainsWhy a Temple Beats a Skyscraper (At Least Once)
Observation decks on skyscrapers show modern Bangkok: glass towers, endless rooftops, the river on the horizon. That's cool, but it's a city that could be anywhere. Temples show the real, historic Bangkok. The one people actually come to Thailand for.
Golden spires, tiled roofs, temple courtyards, boats on the Chao Phraya. All of this is visible from two ancient pagodas in the Rattanakosin area. And while from a skyscraper the city seems like a faceless metropolis, from a temple it looks like a postcard from the past. In our opinion, these two observation decks give more emotion than Mahanakhon. And they cost several times less.
The main idea: skyscrapers and temples show two different Bangkoks. They're not competitors but complements to each other. If time allows, go up to both. But if you have to choose one, the temples win on atmosphere. We covered all Bangkok observation decks in this guide.
Golden Mount (Wat Saket): A Panorama of the Old City from an Ancient Pagoda
The Golden Mount is an artificial hill 76 meters high. On top stands a gilded pagoda. Before skyscrapers appeared, it was the tallest structure on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya. Now it's one of the best places to see Rattanakosin as a whole.
The history of the place is complicated. The temple was built back in the Ayutthaya era, and when the capital moved to Bangkok, it was used as the city crematorium for a long time. At the base of the hill, according to legends, the remains of more than 60 thousand poor people are buried. Today it's of course not a crematorium but a temple highly revered by Thais: at the top, in a golden sarcophagus, a particle of Buddha's ashes brought from India is kept.
The climb up is a pleasure in itself. You walk up a spiral staircase, more than 300 steps. Bells ring around you: it's believed that if you ring them, you'll get luck and health. It smells of incense and flowers. At the top – a panorama of the old city. And what's important: Thais come here to pray, not just tourists with selfie sticks. That adds atmosphere to the place.
What You See from the Golden Mount
From the top you get a view of the entire historic center. You can see the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, temple roofs, the Democracy Monument and the Chao Phraya River. At sunset the golden pagoda is illuminated, and the view becomes especially beautiful. In the morning there are fewer people and it's not as hot.
Opening Hours, Tickets and How to Get There
🕐 Opening hours: daily from 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
💵 Tickets: temple admission is free, access to the observation deck – 100 baht (3.03 USD).
🚶 How to get there: the temple is in the Rattanakosin area (temple on the map). From Khao San Road it's about a 20-minute walk. From other districts – by taxi, bus or canal boat. From the Pratunam and Siam districts it's convenient to take a commuter boat on the canal along the Golden Mount Line to Panfa Leelard Pier (20 baht).
💡 Tip: come at opening or an hour before sunset. At noon the sun is scorching, and there's almost no shade at the top.
Wat Ratchanaddaram Temple: The Cheapest View of the Old City
Wat Ratchanaddaram is the most underrated option. The temple began construction in 1846 by order of King Rama III and is still considered unfinished. It's the longest ongoing construction project in Thailand: over 160 years. Because of its unusual architecture with metal roofs, it's called the "Metal Castle," and it's the only one of its kind in the world – there's no other architecture like it.
The climb costs only 20 baht. It's the cheapest observation deck in Bangkok with a view of Rattanakosin. The height here isn't 300 meters, but the view of tiled roofs, the Democracy Monument and the streets of the old city is completely special. You won't see that from skyscrapers.
Even if you've already been to Mahanakhon or Baiyoke Sky and think you've seen Bangkok, climb up here. The city will open up from another side. And there are almost no tourists here: you can stand quietly looking at old Bangkok, without crowds and fuss.
What You See from Ratchanaddaram
From the upper tiers of the temple you get a panorama of the old city: the rooftops of Rattanakosin, the Democracy Monument, Khao San Road in the distance. It's not a postcard bird's-eye view but more of a bell-tower view: you see the city in detail, not as a whole. And that's its charm.
Inside, on the first floor of the main building, there's a small museum. It tells the history of the temple, and near the exit to the observation deck there are photos and maps with marked temples that are visible from here. Each has a brief description and address. A kind of navigator for the horizon.
Opening Hours, Tickets and How to Get There
🕐 Opening hours: from 7:30 AM to 5:00 PM. Entrance to the observation deck closes at 4:50 PM.
💵 Tickets: temple grounds – free, entrance to the museum and observation deck – 20 baht (0.61 USD).
🚶 How to get there: the temple is within walking distance of Khao San Road (temple on the map). You can walk or take a tuk-tuk.
💡 Tip: go up in the morning or afternoon, when the sun isn't at its zenith. The top is an open area with no shade.
Tips Before You Go: How Not to Spoil the Impression
A couple of things worth keeping in mind so the climb up the temples leaves only good impressions:
- 🌅 Morning or sunset. From 11 AM to 3 PM the sun is merciless, and there's almost no shade at the top. The best time is from 7 to 9 AM or after 5 PM.
- 💧 Bring water. The climb up a spiral staircase is physical exertion, especially in the heat.
- 👔 Clothing for the temple. Covered shoulders and knees are mandatory. Shorts and tank tops won't do, even if it's very hot.
- 🚗 Comfortable shoes. The steps on the Golden Mount are steep and uneven in places. Flip-flops are a bad idea.
- 💰 Cash. Tickets to the observation decks are sold only for cash in baht. Cards aren't accepted.
- 🚶 Both temples are near Khao San Road. You can visit them in one morning without rushing. An hour is enough for each.
And remember: observation decks on temples aren't just about photos. They're about the feeling of the city. From skyscrapers Bangkok seems endless and modern, while from ancient pagodas it's warm, golden and unhurried. Try to see both of these cities. And if you want to learn more about what else to see in Bangkok, we have a big guide to the attractions – with temples, museums, markets and day trips.